Things to Know
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
History was made when Botswana and a newly liberated, democratic South Africa signed in 1999 a treaty to form the first transfrontier peace park in Africa.
Plans to formalise the joint management and development of South Africa’s Kalahari Gemsbok National Park and Botswana’s Gemsbok National Park were proposed as early as 1989, but no such partnership was possible during South Africa’s dark years of apartheid. Following South africa’s independence in 1994, and with the support and encouragement of the Peace Parks Foundation, negotiations concretised; and in May 2002, the park was officially opened.
This immense wilderness (37 000 sq kms) is now shared by both countries as a protected area, and is jointly managed. The entire park is completely unfenced, allowing for wildlife to move freely along the ancient migration routes so necessary for their survival in the desert.
Situated in the extreme southwest corner of Botswana, and adjacent to South Africa’s Northern Cape Province, the Kgalagadi Transfrontier park (KTP) is run as a single ecological unit, and gate receipts are shared. Tourist facilities, however, are still run autonomously.
Immigration and customs facilities have been designed to allow travellers to enter the park in one country and depart in the other. The main entry and departure point between the two countries is at the Two Rivers/ Twee Rivieren gate, which also has camping facilities, chalets, shops and a restaurant.
The national boundary with South Africa is along the dry Nossop River bed; and three quarters of the park lies within Botswana territory. Currently, KTP is mainly visited by self-drive campers, with a few operators offering mobile tours.
At the time of going to print, the Botswana government had allocated five fixed lodge sites for development by the private sector.
There are three main areas to explore: the Nossop River valley, along the South Africa/Botswana border, the wilderness trails on the Botswana side, and what was once the Mabuasehube Game Reserve, now incorporated into KTP at its most northeastern reaches.
To maintain KTP’s pure wilderness experience, there are strict limits as to the number of vehicles that can travel the wilderness trails, how many nights a camping party can stay at a campsite (usually limited to one night), and how many people can camp at each campsite. Hence booking well in advance is essential.
Self-drive campers must comprise at least two vehicles; well-equipped 4x4s are required for the rough, sandy roads.
KTP’s very beautiful terrain comprises fossil river valleys dotted with dwarfed trees and bushes, grasslands and different coloured sand dunes. Wildlife is abundant, and the animals are attracted to waterholes along the otherwise dry riverbed.
Kgalagadi offers premium mammal viewing destinations anywhere because of the sparse vegetation and concentration of animals in the dry riverbeds of the Auob and Nossob Rivers.
It is especially renowned for predator watching and for the seasonal movement of large herbivores such as blue wildebeest, springbok, eland and red hartebeest. Ground Squirrel and Suricate (Meerkat) are two more of the park’s more prominent species.
Both these ground dwelling species live in large family groups for added protection and can easily be seen throughout the park. Honey Badger (Ratel), Pangolin (Scaly Anteater) and Bat-eared Fox are some of the park specials to search for. But it is the predators that are the park’s biggest attraction. Excellent chances of seeing cheetah, leopard, brown and spotted hyena and the definitive black-maned lion exist.
Birds in the Kgalagadi
The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, an immense desert area, with grass-covered sand dunes. Two hundred and sixty-four species of birds have been recorded in the Park, however the majority of birds are not resident species and are irregular visitors to the Park. Many of the birds cannot survive all year round in the Kalahari and fly to areas where there are more favourable conditions.
Of the species recorded, only 78 are residents, while 16 species are seasonal migrants and 18 are nomads. Two-thirds of the raptor species found in southern Africa can be seen in the Kalahari, while smaller species such as the lilac-breasted roller and swallow-tailed bee-eater are also well represented.
History of the Park
The Kgalagadi were some of the first people to penetrate the northern Kalahari and lived in comparative peace with the Khoe speaking inhabitants. Although the did not always remain there, the name they gave the area remained. Kalahari is derived from the Kgalagadi word Makgadikgadi, meaning saltpans or the great thirstland. The first english speaking settlers in the area came to trade with the people living in the Kalahari.
n 1891, the Park area as well as the area to the southwest, presently known as The Mier, was annexed to what was formerly British Bechuanaland. Approximately ten years later, just across the border, a rebellion against the German colonial rule in former South West Africa led to German troops setting up a station at Groot Kolk, in British territory, to transmit messages to South West Africa.
After World War 1, Scottish born Rodger "Malkop" Jackson surveyed the region and a theoretical subdivision was made into farms of 10 200 and 12 800 hectares. Jackson named many of the farms after landmarks in homeland Scotland, most of which are still in use today as boreholes in the Park. Several farmers settled as borehole caretakers along the Auob River and they lived rent-free as long as the boreholes were kept in good repair.
In 1938 the British Government proclaimed a new game reserve across the Nossob in what is today Botswana. Joep le Riche was put in charge. During World War 11, Poachers were short of bullets and game numbers increased dramatically. After the War, game fences were erected along the Park's western and southern boundaries. The Eastern boundary remained unfenced leaving this border open to animals that needed to migrate from east to west.
The Botswana Gemsbok National Park was proclaimed in 1938 by what was then called Bechuanaland. Mabuasehube Game Reserve was added in 1971 and was incorporated into Gemsbok National Park in 1992.
The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is in the Kalahari a semi-arid region with an average rainfall of 150mm/5.9in in the southwest to 350mm/13.8in in the northeast. The summer rainfall occurs from October to April. The rains come mostly in the form of heavy thunderstorms, often accompanied by strong winds. As in every desert environment, there is a strong contrast in day and night temperatures. Winters can be extremely cold.
Dry season – May to September
The winter season has no rain. The nights tend to be very cold, and frost is common. Daytime is pleasant.
May – May – Winter clothing is needed for early morning. The summer season comes to a close with typical temperatures of 6°C/43°F in the morning and 25°C/77°F in the afternoon.
June, July & August Again, winter clothing is needed for almost any activity scheduled for mornings when it commonly drops below freezing (average temperature of just 2°C/35°F ). Afternoons will be mild with clear skies, and temperatures of around 23°C/74°F.
September Temperatures increase to an average of 29°C/84°F in the afternoon. Mornings are still cold, but more tolerable at an average of 7°C/44°F.
Wet season – October to April
Low humidity (although it’s the Wet season) and high temperatures are characteristic of the summer season. Typical daytime temperatures range from a steady 35°C/95°F to a peak of 45°C/113°F or more. Occasional rain breaks the heat and usually comes in the form of dramatic storms, often followed by dust storms.
October & NovemberThe first rains cleanse the haze from the sky. Rainfall is still low and usually only occurs in the afternoon. Temperatures are between 12°C/53°F in the morning and 32°C/90°F in the afternoon.
December, January & February - JThese are the hottest months. Temperatures average around 35°C/95°F, but peak temperatures can reach much higher. Early mornings are lovely with temperatures around 19°C/66°F. Occasional showers clear the air and lower the heat.
March & April – With average daytime temperatures of 31°C/88°F and nights of 13°C/55°F, the summer heat begins to wane. Rains still occur occasionally, but by the end of April, it is mostly dry.
1. Book Early The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park has become so popular, you now have to make a booking up to a year in advance to get a spot at your desired camp. Monkey trails can help you!
2. Getting There The park sits in a fairly remote location, wedged between three counties South Africa, Botswana and Namibia. It’s quite the drive to get to the park regardless from where you are coming from. So expect to make an overnight stop on your way there.
3. What to pack The Kgalagadi is a land of extremes, it will get scorching hot during the summer and freezing cold during winter months, therefore what you need to pack all depends on what time of year you visit the park. Rain falls mainly between January and April.
4. Watch the prey Be aware of the wildlife’s behaviour. If the prey is not happily grazing, sit up straight in your seat. Look out for that flick of an ear, a twitching tail, or that classic stalk and crouch pose of a hungry predator.
5. Driving in the Kgalagadi If you venture out on a 4×4, take a grass net to protect your radiator and deflate your tyres to 1.6 bars or less so you don’t get stuck in thick sand. For safety, travel with at least two vehicles.
6. Tips For Photographing in the Kgalagadi - Read up on all the waterholes and viewpoints before your trip. - Make use of the daily sightings boards. - Understand the directions you will be traveling and the side of the vehicle the sun will be favouring. - Stop often. Listen intently. Pay attention.